関 西 (K A N S A I)

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Kansai is the focus for every trip to Japan. Here are the most castles, shrines and temples. If you are short in time you might skip Tokyo (with Kamakura and Nikko) and fly directly to Kansai aiport instead.

In simple terms the region of Kansai is the area around Kyoto and Osaka and consists of 7 prefectures with many places I consider to be a must visit: Kyoto-ken (Kyoto, Uji), Osaka-ken, Hyogo-ken in the west (Himeji und Kobe), Shiga-ken in the northeast, Mie-ken in the southeast (Ise), and Nara-ken (Ikaruga, Nara) and Wakayama-ken (Koyasan) in the south.

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The most important places that are be a „must vist“ are:

• Kyoto — you need at least 2 days
• Nara — filled with a couple of important temples (daytrip)
• Koyasan — the temple Mountain (daytrip from Osaka)
• Himeji — a brief stop between two hotels is enough to visit the castle
• Osaka — a few very good attraction coverable within a daytrip

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京都 : Kyoto — MUST VISIT, 3 days+

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The sightseeing spot are spread all over the cit area. You need at least 2 days to cover the most important places. In difference to Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya there is a no useful subway. You have to rely a lot on busses and walking. But there are no landlines in Kyoto, that will ruin your pictures. To visit the emperor palace you have to register before (maybe weeks before to get a free spot) and there are only guided tours. More informations I will write on the Kyoto page (I still have to write.

Day trips: Kyoto provides good access to Uji (must visit) and Nara (should vist). Ikaruga (must vist) is also possible but here Osaka is a better place to start.

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大阪 : Osaka — MUST VISIT, 2 days

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Osaka has many places to visit, but in total I would rate them not at the top of the list, but the are a „must visit“ for sure. Osaka is only one hour away from Kyoto by train. Therefore you should consider to do one or two daytrips instead of staying in Osaka. The important attractions are: Tennoji, Osaka castle, Sumiyoshi Taisha, Tsutenkaku und Harakas 300 (and Dotomburi at night). In the south is Mozu with its keyhole shape burrial grounds (check it out at google maps). During autumn moon there is a matsuri at Mozu Shrine you really should visit.

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奈良 : Nara — MUST VISIT, 1 day+

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Like Kamakura it is a place filled the temples and shrines. If I remember correct it has the biggest buddha statue (Kamakura is only on place 2) and the highest wooden building in the world (I have to check up both facts). Nara is a must visit. if you have to decide between Uji an Nara, you really should go for Nara. Nara is a perfect daytrip from Osaka. Because doing so you can take a brief stop in Ikaruga. You should focus on the highlights. Otherwise the 4:30pm deadline is killing you.

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斑鳩 : Ikaruga, Naraken — MUST VISIT, 1/2 day

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This place is a must visit and shouldn’t be a lucky accident like on my first trip to Japan. Holy Moly. The Horyuji is a world heritage and the Hokkiji next door is a national treasure. Warning: If you plan to visit Nara and Ikaruga on the same day, you only can cover the highlights of Nara and it is a tight schedule. You need 2 hours minimum for Ikaruga and these two hour you will miss in Nara. Getting to Ikaruga is possible from Osaka and Kyoto with Osaka beeing the better starting point.

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宇治 : Uji, Kyotoken — MUST VISIT, 1/2 day

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Uji is famous for its green tea and the phoenix hall (displayed on the 10yen coin). The tales of Genji (a famous and important peace of japanese literature) is set in Uji. Therefore there is Genji museum. Beside that there are some shrines and temples. My rating is: Nara, Ikaruga, Uji. Uji is accessable from Kyoto; and also from Osaka but with long (time consuming) arrival.

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伊勢 : Ise, Mieken — MUST VISIT, 1 day (day trip)

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Ise is the Vatikan of Shinto. The most important shrine is here. In fact, there are two shrines. Both are located in a forest area. The so called outer shrine is 5min away by walk from the train station. There is a bus connection to the inner shrine. There is also a pilgrimage. On the entrance to the inner shrine also begin a very nice shopping street with old wooden houses. Don’t miss it.

You should plan th whole day. Do not make the mistake I did and visit Toba. Ise is also an idea for a base camp to explore the Mie peninsula. Nagoya can be done by 80% as a day trip. Then Toba is an option and the married rocks (don’t know the correct english term) as well, but both places don’t have a high priority. Time consuming travel and not much to see.

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夫婦岩 : Meoto Iwa, Mieken — skip it, 1/2 day

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This place is nothing more than two tiny rocks in the water with a rope between them. In Shinto this is a special place. But for a non-japanese tourist … Only visit if you have some spare time. A combination with a visit to Ise is possible, but visit the rocks first. Train connections are not good, specially in the evening. Here Ise also provides some restaurants for dinner.

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鳥羽 : Toba, Mieken — skip it, 1 day

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In Toba is the island of pearls. The realm of Mikomoto. The entrance is pricy. Famous attraction are the female pearl divers. But it is not spectacular. You see the boat and the women diving. Next thing you is, that they are back at the surface with a  seashell. Beside that there is nothing intesting that is worth the travel time. If you have your base camp in Nagoya and really have to go to Toba (because of your girl friend), get up early, visit Toba first and after that Ise. Waiting for a train back to Nagoya is a mood killer. Better spend the evening in the shopping street in Ise.

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天橋立 : Amanohashidate, Kyotoken — can, 1 day

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Amanohashidate is one of the free famous sceneries of Japan. Sure, the sanbank with all these pine trees is a unique view, but that’s it: a sandbank with pine trees. At the southern side is the train station and a small temple. On the northern side is a shrine and an old temple in the mountains (bus). On both sides is a sightseeing platform. Getting there is difficult. It takes at least 2 hours from Kyoto. It is doable as a daytrip.

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姫路 : Himeji, Hyogoken — MUST VISIT, 1/2 day

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Himeji castle is a defintion of a „must vist“. It is the most beautfil and well known castle of Japan. And it is in walking distance of the train station. Therefore this hightlight of Japan can be visited as a stop over if you change location. A little bit away (you need to take the bus) is a temple area in the mountain. The temple is worth a visit but transforms Himeji from a stop over to a full daytrip. Therefore fpor me the temple is only optional.

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神戸 : Kobe, Hyogoken — can, 1 day

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Most people associate the big Hanshin earthquake of 1995 and Kobe beef with this city. In the north is Kitano, a ward with a lot of western styled (victorian) houses and a few shrines and temples. Kobe has a small China Town for the evening. In the harbour area are waiting the Merikan Park und Mosaic (Kobe Harbourland). As fas as I remember my time in Kobe, it is only a should visit and therefore is something for a longer stop over or a daytrip from Osaka. There is a ferry boat from Kobe airport to Kansai airport.

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和歌山 : Wakayama, Wakayamaken — can, 1/2 day

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Wakayama has a castle. It is not a small one and also not an ugly one. But, that is all that Wakayama has to offer. I only stayed in Wakayama because of the ferry boat to Tokushima (Shikoku). Oh yes. I Wakayama is the beginning of the Tama train line. The other terminal is in a very small town; not important. But the station master of that train station is a cat called Nitama.

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高野山 : Koyasan, Wakayamaken — MUST VISIT, 1 day+

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Koyasan is the temple mountain of Japan an the centre of Shingon Buddism. Highlight of Koyasan is the temple Okuno-in an the 1,3 miles long path thru the forest, that in fact is a cemetry with over 200.000 tomb stones. The other attractions are Kongobu-ji, Daishi Kyokai, Garan and the Tokugawa Mausoleum. I’ve visited Koyasan on a foggy day. From my point of view the best weather to walk thru the forest. Travelling to Koyasan is easy with Nankai line, that starts on south Osaka.

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桜井 : nahe Sakurai, Naraken — can, 1/2 day

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Sakurai is a city in the middle of of Nara. Close the city is the Hasedera, a beautiful temple. Close the Sakurai is also the Tanzan shrine with it’s 14-story-pagoda. The shrine looks old and rundown, but this adds to its mystical aura. Both places are really worth a visit. But. Hasedera is barely in walking distance from the train station. Tanzan is worst. The shrine is in the mountains and busses going very infrequently. Therefore both places are only a „can visit“.

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吉野 : Yoshino, Naraken — can, 1/2 day

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Yoshino is a little bit offside and only features a long street with 4 temples und 2 shrines. Without cherry blossom there isn’t much to see. The temple and shrines without cherry blossom are noth worth a visit (except you have visited all the other places south of Osaka already). But during cherry blossom there are over 30.000 trees waiting for spectators. For travelling to Yoshino I recommend Kintetsu railway, starting in Abenobashi (south Osaka, next to JR Tennoji station). But you have to change trains.

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彦根 : Hikone, Mieken — can, 1/2 day

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Hikone is a small town, that can be visited if there is some time to kill. Hikone hat a castle, a japanese garden Genkyu-en and the shopping street called „castle road“ with some old style houses. The castle is small but cute. Hikone is located at the Tokaido-trainline between Kyoto an Nagoya at the shore of lake Biwa. Normal trains stop here. The next Shinkansen stop is one station away in Maibara.

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am Shinkansen	JR-Linien	JR-Linien	non-JR-Strecken	abseits (Bus)
Kyoto ***	Nara ***	Shirahama	Mt. Koya ***	Iga Ueno *
Himeji **	Ise **	Kutsuura	Amanohashidate *	Miyama
Osaka **	Kinosaki **	Shingu	Yoshino *	Kumano region
Kobe *	Uji *	Toba	Asakusa
Maibara	Takeda *	Owase	Suzuka
	Kumano *	Koka
	Hikone	Tsu
	Wakayama

Listed in the map but no sightseeing spots. There are places to change train or bus lines)

• Maizuru, Toyooka (connecting station for Amanohashidate)
• Fukuchiyama (connecting station)
• Tsu (connecting station between JR, Ise Railway and Kintetsu)
• Kansai Airport, Itami Airport (Osaka, International)
• Kobe Airport, Tajima Airport, Nanki-Shirakama Airport

中 部 地 方 (C H Ū B Ū)

[Deutsche Version]

Chuubu is the region between Kansai (Osaka and Kyoto) and Kanto (Tokyo). Historically Chuubu is part of the Kansai area. The nine prefectures of Chuubu are: Shizuoka, Aichi, Yamanashi, Nagano, Gifu, Fukui, Ishikawa, Toyama and Niigata. The eastern border is east of Izu peninsula and goes straight up to east of Niigata. The western border starts west of Nagoya and then runs northwest. Lake Biwa is on the Kansai side.

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The Tokaido Shinkansen tracks are in the south, next to the coastline. Since 2015 (?) the Joetsu Shinkansen, that connects Nagano and Tokyo goes further north to Joetsu-Myoko. There it becomes the Hokuriko Shinkansen and runs along the northern coast to Kanazawa. (It is planned to go further to Fukui and than to join the Tokaido.) The northmost prefecture of Chuubu is connected to Tokyo by the Niigate Shinkansen.

There are main lines from Nagoyo thru Kiso Valley to Matsumoto and Nagano and another one over Gifu to Takayama and further to Toyama. Another main line runs along the northern coast an connects Fukui, Kanazawa, Toyama, Myoko and Nagaoka. Beside JR there are a lot of other private lines.

Because of the many places I have split the post about Chuubu into two posts. I used the Nakasendo / chuo line for that. The highlights are Nagoya, Fuji, the Kisodani, Matsumoto und maybe Gifu.

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名古屋 : Nagoya — MUST VISIT, 1-2 days

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This city is a must visit and if you are good, you only need one day. You should visit three places: the castle, the Japanese Garden in the North of the city (and the museum next to it) and the big and important shrine in the South. Nagoya is a good base camp for day trips to Gifu, Inuyama, Ise and (maybe) Toya. A stopover visit to Nagoya is possible, because the shinkansen between Kyoto/Oosaka and Tokyo stops here.

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岐阜 : Gifu — MUST VISIT, 1 day (day trip)

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Gifu is doable as a day trip from Nagoya or optional as a stopover on the way from/to Takayama. If you want to watch the cormoran fishing you have to stay until late at night. But then there are only trains to Nagoya available. There is a bus from the train station to the river. Get of the bus there and visit the temple and the shrine nearby. The temple has an old Daibutsu. At the slope of the mountain is a pagoda. At the mountain top is an old castle with a small museum. You can walk or take the ropeway; depends on the time left before it is getting dark.

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犬山 : Inuyama — (not rated yet) 1 day

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Half distance betweeen Nagoya and Gifu is Inuyama. The train connection are not perfect but ok and this place is worth a visit. Because I messed up the travel route I only could visit a tiny part of Inuyama and missed most of the attractions. Therefore I will visit Inuyama again and rate this place afterwards. Inuyama seems to be a good candidate for a daytrip from Nagoya. In opposite to Gifu, Inuyama is not good for a stop over on the way to Takayama.

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木曽路 : Kisodani / 中山道 : Nakasendo — MUST VISIT, 1 full day

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Kisodani, a valley in the mountains between Nagano and Gifu prefecture, is a piece of ancient Japan. There is a hiking trail called Nakasendo. It is an historic trading route, compareable to the Tokaido, that connected Heian (Kyoto) and Edo (Toyko). In ancient times there were several post towns. Two of them are Magome and Tsumago.

My suggestion: Visit one town than walk the 7km on the Nakasendo to the other town. There are busses between both towns for the way back (and to the train stations). This trip will take a whole day. You have to stay for at least 2 nights or one night and a late train to the next base camp, There are more post towns in Kisodani but you need the help of very good hiking shoes or a Japan Rail. Since my visit in 2012 this place for sure is part of my „must visit list“.

The train that goes along the Kisodani is the Chuo-Line. The very same Chuo-Line that intersects the Yamanote ring in Tokyo at Kanda and Shinjuku. Therefore, all you need to get to the Kisodani is get in the train and wait. Be aware: The is a Super Limited Express at Chuo Line between Nagoya and Matsumoto that doesn’t stop in Margome or Tsumago. I know because I took it in 2012 by accident and nearly run aground in (Kiso)Fukushima.

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松本 : Matsumoto — SHOULD, 1/2 day

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The castle is a good argument for Matsumoto. But this the only one. The castle is a little bit away from the train station, but in walking distance. My recommendaction is similar to Nagano: good for a stop over. But Matsumoto is not interesting enough for a day trip.

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富士河口湖 : Fuji-Kawaguchiko — can, 1 day

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This place only has one advantage: It is right next to the Fuji. You can start the full hiking tour here or take a bus to the 5th station. There is a connection by bus and train to Shinjuku. (Remember: For the Japanese Shinjuku is not Tokyo.) But there is nothing to visit. The sea is one of the five Fuji lakes. Two other are accessable by hiking. A bus helps to shorten the walk. There are two caves. But they are not that fancy. Kawaguchiko is a high price area, because of its good connection to Tokyo and the view to the Mt. Fuji from the onsen bath tub. If you really stay here, make a visit to the local micro brewery. The restaurant there is nice. The suicide forest is also around the corner.

My suggestion: Spend a few days in the mountain and then turn into a pricy onsen hotel for relaxiation for one night, maybe two. If you mention the Fuji hiking you are a welcome guest. I stayed in Hotel Sansui. Awesome. I don’t have to check out the other hotels. (here are some pictures in my post from 2006)

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富士山 : Mt. Fuji — SHOULD, 1 day;
over 2 days for the complete mountain experience

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The Mt. Fuji si 3776m high and Kawaguchi is 700m above sea level. With other words: If you are standing at the summit, you can watch down 3000m of height. This isn’t possible in the alps. Going up to station 7 is kind of easy (comparing to the rest). Arriving station 5 is even easier. because there is a bus. Extrem early birds with good physical condition can go up and down in one day from/to station 5.

The hghlight is to watch a sunrise at the summit. This requires to stay of night in the mountain at one of the stations huts. If possible at close as possible to the summit. You don’t want to hike longer distances in the dark. Believe me. It also requires preperation (clothing, money, planning, booking). The station huts are small and cramped. Camping is not allowed and also not possible.

If you want to go the complete distance you have to start in Kawaguchi at station 1. This is still on my list. I will need at least 3 days. I don’t want to climb 3000m of height in one day. Going downhill is easier but also dangerous (it strains the knees, you easily accellerate and trip; and you still exhausted from going uphill).

I you arrive from Tokyo, do not use the Shinkansen. It is a very long journey. Plan your destination to be Kawaguchi and use the bus or train departing fro Shinjuku.

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am Shinkansen	an Hauptlinie	an Nebenstrecken	abseits
Nagoya	Kisodani	Obuse	Shirakawa-go
Shizuoka	Matsumoto	Yamanouchi	Eiheiji
Karuizawa	Hakube	Bessho Onsen	Noto Peninsula
Nagano	Gifu	Five Lakes	Sado Island
Toyama	Gero	Gujo	Izu Peninsula
Takakoka	Takayama	Takato Castle	Okuhida
Kanazawa	Furukawa	Togura	Kamikochi
Echigo-Yuzawa	Kaga Onsen	Fujinomiya	Norikura
Niigata	Fukui	Kurobe Gorge	Mt. Fuji
Ueda			Lake Hamanako
			Echigo-Tsumari
			Nozawa Onsen

Following place are listed in the map but are no sightseeing spot. There are places where you need to change trains or busses.

• Central Japan Airport (national airport, Nagoya)
• Kofu
• Nagaoka