Conclusion of 2012

Top 6: It was hard to decide. Do I vote for whole days single events. The compromise I made is ok.

  • Ainokura und Shirakawa incl. the stay over night
  • Koyasan
  • Neujahr am Kane-ji
  • Kisodani (Magome, Nakasendo, Tsumago)
  • Tokyo Jissha Tour
  • Dezome Shiki 2013

 

Again there is one rule that saved the day: Matsuri. If you are travelling to Japan, also plan to visit at least 2 festivals. They are always give you memories you can tell your grand children.

Worst 5: It was also hard to declare the worst 5 days of this journey. All days were somewhere in the middle. No really outstanding highlight or disappointments.

  • The Stop in Inuyama. This day sucks. Everything went wrong. There was a lot of bus and train involved but the last 10 miles killed the mood: missed train connections, rain, half of the attractions were closed, the other half was not that impressive. It all ending with the unwanted stop in Kisofukushima.
  • 30. Dezember. Travelling back from Kusatsu to Tokyo is a nightmare if you miss the one and only good connection between bus, train and Shinkansen. It was worse that the change from Ainokura to Kisodani.
  • 31. Dezember until 23 Uhr. This day I lost to bad planning too. The Metropolitain Garden was closed, the sky tree had an unexpected queue. In the end I was running around without aimless.
  • Amanohashidate. I expected more. But in the end end it was not worth the long trip. This day falls into the category: I was there, now the next entry of the to do list.
  • Asuka and Eihei-ji. Again a stupid plan that ruined the day. Never try to change to visit two places in one day. In Asakusa the shrine was far away from the train station. I lost a lot of time. And in Eihei-ji I already lost a lot of time before arriving. Again the temple was far away from the train station and only one bus. But the other half of both days was fine.

All „worst 5“ are the result of bad planning. Before the trip a planned every single day for weeks. On the plus side there are Shirakawa-go and Ainokura and the travel to from there to Kisodani.

The conclusion

Looks like I covered all intersting spots in Japan. It is getting difficult to find interesting places. This time Shirakawago and Kisodani were these places. If I look into my travel guide (Lonely Planet) there are more historic places, castles and temple. But there always like something you already know. I am afraid that there is nothing left with „I must ahave seen“.

Left overs … One my to do list remains the last of the 3 famous gardens, three metropolitain gardens and the summit of the Fuji. Maybe a visit of the sky tree at daylight and the Yamanoto day. And there a some meseum, some Kabuki and Noh.

Another result of this 5th journey: I changed hotels a lot. That cased a lot of stress. You are always on the run. Rule: At least stay three days at one place.

End of a journey

I am back in Germany. Just from the beginning it was crap. At the airport I lost all my holiday mood because of these idiots who stand left and right on the escalator and not move aside if you want to pass. And these idiot at baggage claim. You cannot go forth nor back. Germany sucks.

The only good thing was the taxi driver. He was kind. Helped me to load and unload my luggage. The doors do not open automatically here in Germany but the rest of the service really was on a japanese level. He tells me that he is new on the jib. Oh boy. I bet if I wait a few month he will be as stroppy as the rest of this crowd. Sad, somehow.

I unpack my stuff. Looks like I picked up some nice souvenirs. At the top of the list are the bokken and the shinai from 2010, that I „stored temporarily“ at Hotel Edoya.

And it looks like I have a lot of sake and chochu brought thru customs clearance. No panic. It was legal, I used the red door. The amount was below the limit. I surely do not risc trouble for a bottle of boze. I also packed a lot of dried ika and atarime. This stuff you do not get in Germany. Different kinds of Japanese rice cake; soba noodles from Ainokura. There are also tenugi, these small towels. You can get them everywhere. And then there is my second stamp towel from Shibu onsen.

2010 I bought some T-shirts in Rishiri, Soya Misaki. This time I forgot this during my journey. But I got some fun shirts in Tokyo.

Then there are some special items. I wouldn’t call them souvenirs because they have a different meaning for me and are rather expensive. I talk about my buddhism equipment from Koyasan. I mean also the Ema from the Tokyo Jissha. And the curtain for my kamidana.

What happened to yesterday?
Nothing.I just didn’t wrote a blog entry. I got up at 8am and after the check-out walked to the train station. Because I packed my luggage yesterday I could afford a 40 minute long breakfast, a mixture of japanese and western cuisine. Then with the Keisei Liner to the airport.

I got stopped at the security check in front of the airport. Shinai and bokken are always suspicious. After I explained my hobbies everything was ok. To be honest, before I could explain the stuff the look on their faces was not very welcomming.

The registration of the luggage caused also some trouble, because they wanted to check the stuff I wrapped completely with tape. I took me 20 minutes to put all togethere after this check. Lucky for me that I always plan one hour backup time. And there is still plenty of time for a visit at the airport lounge. The 10 hour flight to Amsterdam was without any problems. The movie program was average. Bourne 4 and Ted. I also watched R.E.D. and Ice Age 3 again.

The stop in Amsterdam was only long enough for a beer. But was ok. The fligt to Hamburg only takes one hour. Last obstacle: customs clearance. But it was easy. 3,5 liter of sake are within the limits, and the Kendo equipment too. Shuttle bus and taxi. Then I am back home. At 1:30am local time.

First I started the heating. I reduced the temperature in the house to 50°F. It is a little bit chilly. Specially if you are overtired. It is cold in Germany. 32°F But it feels much colder than the 18°F from  Kusatsu.

A first sum up: Looks like I have visited all important parts of Japan. It was difficult to find some new places. Shirakawago and Kusatsu were these places. Tokyo is complete. Looks like I need to plan something special for my next trip.  An even more exotic place (Okinawa) or a big matsuri (like 2010).

[deutsche Version]

Narita

Check-out at 10am. The last 24 hours in Japan are running. The Keisei-Liner transports me to Narita. This time with my tripod and my Kendo equipment. Arrival at Narita where I walk to the hotel with 60kg of equipment. Check-in. With less weight on my shoulders I am heading for the big temple. The street leading there is a pedestrian area during the day. It is a pleasant walk. Some old houses to the left and right; many souvenir shops. All suited for tourist, specially if they are heading for the airport. I should have visited Narita on an earlier trip. It is really nice here.

The temple area is really big. We have January 8th, but there are still people here for the new year prayer. Stairs. And a gate with a big lampion. I hear chanting and singing form the big hall. Drums. A pagoda on the right side and many more buildings after the next stairway. This temple really is spacious. I can spot another big pagoda, the same style like in Koyasan.

It is 3pm and to late to visit the other attractions in Narita. They are all 6-10 miles outside of the city center and the trains and busses going there are departure in one hour. There would be no time left for sightseeing before everthing closes. No. I stay here. It seems that I am not in the mood for another trip. I decide for a walk thru the park, followed by some shopping and late lunch.

A short break at the hotel. I prepare the bags for tomorrow. At 8pm I start into the city. There was a bar called „Jet Lag“. But too many gaijins there. I prefer something more local. I find a resto that serves Katsudon, after that I take a brief stop for a really expensive cocktail. Back at the hotel I stop at the hotel bar. Nice place. Small but with the right company a really good ending for this holiday. We talk about Anime. Cowboy Bebop and Yoko Kanno. Now finest Jazz is running in the hotel lobby. A nice whiskey. This is how it should be.

At 11.30pm I call it a day. I won’t risk to oversleep and miss the flight. That would be stupid ending.

[deutsche Version]

Kawagoe

Today I will visit Kawagoe. The temple museum and the palace are closed but I will check out the rest. The travel will also brings me to Shinjuku. I will give my camera to Pentax for a checkup. The Pentax forum is opening at 110:30am. I can pickup my camera at 1pm. Plenty o time to buy souvenirs in Harajuku and Omotesando. Back at Pentax bad news are wainting for me. The K-10 is a goner. The mount of the CCD ship is broken. The K-m is defocussed. It will take at least 3 weeks to fix it. They try to do a software workaround. I check out the new K-30. This version isn’t available in Germany.

Kawagoe Gallery

At 2pm I am sitting in the local to Kawagoe. There is a nice shopping street for souvenirs. At the end of the shopping area the part with the old houses begins. Kawagoe is called Little Edo. And this area is the reason why. Unfortunately this street is also the major road during rush hour. At the end is a place called candy corner. A small street with a dozen candy shops. Japan is strange. Then I go to the temple. It is closed but I can visit the outside. Next stop is the temple. The activities for New Year are finally over. All booths are closed. I run back to the shopping street. There should a nice bottle of sake somewhere. I am still looking for souvenirs.

Back at Tokyo I totally lost track of time. I forgot Hide. Damned. It is already 8pm when i arrive at the hotel. I am not in the mood for a late night stroll thru Shinjuku or Shibuya. Therefore I check out another bar in Ueno.

I know that this entry isn’t that long, but there wasn’t something happening today. Tomorrow I move to my last stop, Narita. Looks like I visited every important part of Tokyo. There are only two open projects left: The last metropolitain gardens and the Yamanote tour. Maybe some clubs and a matsuri. For the next time I have to find someting really special.

[deutsche Version]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvfEXmAANFA

Iidabashi

or … what happened else today.

Now it is time to go back to the hotel. The monorail brought me up to Big Sigth, now go further to the terminal station Toyoso. All these island are new. The didn’t exist when I was here last time (2004). Even Big Sight wasn’t built back then. Crazy. 8 years ago this was part of Tokyo bay. Here in Toyoso I have to change into the subway. I asume that this streets were the coastline before. The houses are looking old. But before I start into the subway, I order myself a big bowl of ramen. I only forgot that I am still in uniform. This causes some irritation.

Iidabashi Gallery

Late in the afternoon I start to find the district called Iidabashi. The Lonely Planet mentioned it to be a point of interest in Tokyo. I don’t know why. This place is nothing special. There are two nice shrines here; an old one and a moder one. There are some side alleys. Ok, there are some more. It is like a maze. GPS would really be a benefit. And it is a residental area. Maybe that is what the LP meant by „an old part of Tokyo“. After several turns I am back at the main road, that is a pedestrial area until 6pm. It is the first I spot supermarket and a drugstore in Tokyo.

It is getting dark. Therefore I start towards the Sky tree. Maybe there are some waiting tickets left. Holidays are over and there may be less people. I get one and can pick up my ticket in 90 minutes. That gives me some time to pick up my tripod in the hotel. But again I underestimated the distances and the travel time in Tokyo. I arrive back at the tower a few minutes before my time is over. And in addition I get myself lost in the maze of floors and stairways. Not easy to find 5F. Even worse. They order me into the wrong queue. The first time I have to act like an American to correct it. Otherwise the waiting ticket is void.

Again I have to wait before I can buy the final ticket. 2000 yen. Pricy. And then there is some waiting again; in front of the elevator. There really are many tourists here. The elevator is going up with a speed of 23 miles/hour. This means 1968 ft/min or 3 floors/second.

This is a view. Tokyo at night. And there are no sky scraper or tall buildings around. Therefore it looks even higher. Tokyo is in every direction; up to the horizon. All these lights. There is an area with multi-story apartment buildings that have an access balcony. In front of every door is a light bulb. Are there are many light bulbs. To many to count. Behing each lamp is living at least one person. Wow.

There, between the tall buildings, is the Sumidagawa with all the bridges. The buildings get lower into the opposite direction. I see the curve of the river I only knew from google maps. Then this other river is the Arakawa. And this really long building. is this the building they built as a fire division wall? It is approximately a half mile long.

And then there is this darkness underneath the Sky Tree. The district Musashi is old and basically filled with small business and residential buildings. No skyscraper. Surrounded by the rest of Tokyo, it looks like a black hole. No doubt that the Sky Tree with its 10 story shopping mall will change this area of Tokyo forever.

Sky Tree Gallery

A second elevator brings my up to the 450m level. Another 100m of height. Crazy. Ok, I have to pay another 1000 yen, but is worth the trip. The elevator has a glass roof and the elevator shaft is illuminated. 100m in blue. Futuristic.

And the additional 100m really make a difference. The sightseeing platform is going slightly uphill. This is the helix a saw from below. It looks strange but is a great idea. The walk ends one level higher at an elevator that goes down to 350m. They seperate the ingoing and outgoing stream of people.

On my next trip I will visit again during daylight. I hope there are less people waiting then. And I will bring a polarisation filter to remove the reflex from the windows. I shall I return at night again. All these lights. They have a hypnotic effect on me. I am like a moth in a lamp store.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9rRWodzs4U

[deutsche Version]