Archiv der Kategorie: 関西

.. „westlich der Grenzstation (Hakone)“. Diese Bezeichnung schließt historisch die Region Chubu mit ein. Im Westen läuft die Grenze zu Chukoku etwas rechts der Linie Bizen-Tottori. Im Osten ist die Grenze zu Chuubu kurz vor Nagoya. Ein anderer verwendeter Begriff ist Kinki (=nahe der Hauptstadt (Kyoto)). In Kansai liegen Oosaka und Kyoto, sowie die Orte Himejji, Uji, Nara und Ise. Hier liegen fast 60% der im Reiseführer erwähnten Sehenswürddigkeiten.

6 .. 2004 RELOADED /, 6.1 .. Osaka Reloaded, 関西

Mozu (und Osaka) Reloaded

Osaka, Runde 2. Fußmarsch zum Shintennoji. Neben der Burg das zweite große Highlight. Jetzt weiß ich endlich, wohin die Dias gehören, die ich nicht zuordnen konnte.

Geld vergessen. Auf nach Tennoji. In der Hoffnung, dass es hier einen internationelen Geldautomaten gibt. Zeitplan und Route im Eimer. Durch den Tennoji Park geht es zum Tsutenkaku. Das Wahrzeichen von Kansei. Kein Anime in Osaka ohne Referenz auf diesen Funkturm. Die Straßen rund um den Turm sind quirlig, laut und chaotisch. Japan.

Mit Zwischenstop am Imamiya-Ebisu-Jinja zum Sumiyoshi Taisha. War 2004 hier, aber bei Nacht. Sehe den ganzen Schrein zum ersten Mal. Ein Hingucker. Die Bogenbrücke ist berühmt. Abstecher hat sich gelohnt.

Zurück nach Namba. Ausflug durch Dotomburi. Der Glyco-Man ist in Reparatur. Zum Glück hatte ich ihn 2012 auf CMOS gebannt.

Mittagessen in einem Udon-Laden. Bin 2 Stunden hinter meinem Zeitplan. Musste noch den JRP in Osaka Eki abolen. Hotelwechsel. Keine Experimente. Taxi und los. Dieses Mal habe ich ein Zimmer im Erdgeschoss.

Weiter nach Mozu. Etwas Tageslicht habe ich noch.

Wie gestern. Futondaikos werden getragen. Matsurie-Stimmung. Mehr Text, wenn ich Zeit habe. Und wenn ich raus habe, wie ich die videos von der Kamera komprimiere, dann folgend die auch noch.

6 .. 2004 RELOADED /, 6.1 .. Osaka Reloaded, 関西

Osaka (und Mozu) Reloaded

Flug war langweilig wie immer. Dafuer war die Verpflegung super; und das Lake nicht eine dem Glas Sake, das ich ihn Frankfurt gefunden habe. ANA bietet gutes Essen.

John Wayne reitet in den Sonnenuntergang. Ich fliege in den Sonnenaufgang. Was für ein Bild in 10km Höhe. Stelle fest, dass ich meine SD-Karten in Koblenz gelassen habe. Also keine Fotos von diesem Ereignis.

Landung in Haneda hat was. Ist eine Insel. Schiffe und Flugzeuge auf einem Bild. Dazu Möwen. Nähe zum Flughafen macht sorgen.

Umstieg auf Inlandflug mit allem drum und dran. Gepäck einsammeln, durch den Zoll, Gepäck einchecken und zum Gate. Alles in 90 Minuten. Inkl. Bustransfer zu einem anderen Terminal. Sportlich, aber machbar. Für Nachahmer: Plant lieber mit 2 Stunden, das enstpannt.

Flug nach Itami mit einer 777. Flughafen in bebautem Gebiet. Hat auch was. Häuser, Häuser, Häuser, Landebahn, Landung. Erste Aufgabe: Bargeld. Dann eine SD-Karte. Flughafenpreise: 4 GB für 12€. Dann das Begrüßungsbier und das Foto mit der Tatonka-Tasche.

Ein Stück Monorail, dann mit der Hankyu verbei an Juso (siehe 2006) nach Umeda. Wechsel nach Osaka-Eki. Das Dach ist riesig. Ab in den Untergrund. U-Bahn. Hab vergessen, was für ein Chaos das hier ist. Nach einigen U-Turns die U-Bahn gefunden … deshalb also das U. Rest ist fast schon zu einfach. Koffer abgeben und auf zur ersten Runde.

Erster Stop Osaka-Schrein. Fußmarsch zur Münzanstalt. Hab vergessen, dass heute Samstag; geschlossen, weiter zur Burg von Osaka. Kleinen Umweg über den Tamatsukuri-Schrein und die Ruinen (Bodenplatte und ein paar Steine) vom Naniwanomiya Palast.

Check-in im Hotel. Duschen. Klamottenwechsel. Muss sein. Erst der Flug, dann das Japanwetter. Dann geht es zum Highlight des ersten Tages: Tsukimi Matsuri am Mozu Hachimangu. Der Weg ist, wie ich ihn erinnere. Der typische Klingeln der Schranken, vorbei am Lawson ins Wohngebiet. Die Trommeln werden immer lauter. Kurve. Die ersten Buden mit Essen. Dann die Kreuzung mit dem großen Tor. Japp, wie 2004. Dutzende kleine Buden mit Essen, Trinken und Spiele für die Kinder.

Oben die Futondaikos. Sie werden mehrfach hin und her getragen. Und in die Luft gestemmt. Ich teste die 1600 ASA der K7. Etwas rauschen, aber OK. Ohne Hitech-Blitz habe ich eh keine andere Wahl. Danach teste ich die Videofunktion. Die Stimmung ist ausgelassen. Urlaub.

Ach ja. Die Futondaikos sind mit Tragestelle etwa 4x6m. Sie werden von 60 Mann getragen wiegen – Achtung – 2000 kg. Morgen werden diese Dinger etwa 30 Stufen hinabgetragen, nach dem ganzen hin- und herlaufen, und dann zurück in den eigenen Schrein getragen. Das sind bis zu 5 km.

Um 23 Uhr nehme ich den Zug zurück ins Hotel. Damit ist der erste Tag rum.

5 .. SHINNEN /, 5.1 .. Tempel in Kansai, 関西

Hikone and Eihei-ji

Today is the first real tavel day; with two brief stops. And after the Asuka-Yoshino-Day I am not that sure that it was a good idea. An early check shall me buy some time.

Hikone castle was easy to find. After a short walk I am in front of the castle wall. The way leads upstairs, underneath a bridge an the over the bridge into the castle. Inside is empty. The main tower is still there. All the other buildings are gone. Only some stones and the footprints are remaining. The tower is one of the oldest orignal castle towers in Japan. Its structure is completely built from wood. Impressive. But cold. I have to take of my shoes. From the tower I can see Hikone and Lake Biwa.

Hikone-jo Entrance
Hikone-jo Entrance
Hikone-jo New Year Decoration
Hikone-jo Mascot
Genkyuen
Hikone

While I am leaving the tower there is a performance of the castle/town mascot. A white hamster(?) with a samurai helmet. This is too japanese for me. The japanese garden seems to be beautiful in summer time. But now in the winter there are no flowers and half of the garden is a construction side. But I could manage to take some pictures without a digger.

Castle Road is filled with old houses; black wooden beams and white walls. A nice view. Here I stop for breakfast and lunch: coffee and cake. But the prices are … pricy. A whole cake in the size of an small pizza costs 3600yen. If I resize the cake to a german standard size I end up with approx 7000yen ($100). I am in the wrong business. By the way. This place is sooo cheesy: Baroque silverware, chair cushions and art noveau furniture (like in anime). I may be the first male customer.

On my way to Tsuruga I have to change in Nagahama. This was not planned. But the tracks are blocked because of an accident. I am already one hour behind the schedule. Where was the accident? Behind me? In front of me? A train arrives from Hikone. This tracks are free. I am getting nervous. Then the Ltd. Express to Fukui arrives. That is all I need.

In Fukui it is snowing. The next bus to Eihei-ji departures at 3:20pm. And the last one back leaves at 4:20pm at the temple. This means to wait more than one hour to only have 40 minutes to visit on of the biggest and oldest temple in Japan. Shall I take a taxi and kill my finances? $50 at least. I discuss my option with the bus station clerk  and decide for the bus. I can store my complete luaggage at the office.

Eihei-ji
Street to Eihei-ji
Eihei-ji
Eihei-ji
Eihei-ji
Eihei-ji

I use the waiting time for lunch. Karee. After that I am escorted to the bus and introduced to the bus driver. I am the only guest. VIP. The streets are funny. There is a sprinkler system on the centerline to melt and flush the snow from the street. Interesting system. But what do they do if temperatures are below 14°F?

We arrive at the temple in a magic atmosphere: Snow, some fog. A little bit like Koyasan. Inside there are monks everywhere. I pace thru the halls and hallways. The temple is really beautiful and 40 minutes are far to short for a visit. Because of the weather many hallways are covered with pastic planes. It hard to get  clear view into the garden. Monks are praying in big hall. Some of them walking around and carrying things. They walk like robots on rails: high speed straight, then stop and a 90 degree turn. Acceleration. The things they are carry are held above head. Looks funny.

After a last short visit to a chamber with hundred of golden plates a run back to the bus. The bus stops is down the street. It is slippery. I have to buy the ticket in a small shop at the opposite side of the street. The bus drivers is so kind and waits for me. VIP. Again.

On the way back we pass a construction side. Concrete piles. They built a shinkansen track. Soon Kanazawa and Fukui are connected to Tokyo. This will change the location on the map. In the past monks travelled for weeks to get here. I have to spend a day in trains and changing several times. In a few years tourist can visit this place on a daytrip. I am not sure if this is good. Eihei-ji will lose some of its mystic aura.

Another stop for dinner before I enter the next train to Kanazawa. I decide for a cafe where the coffee is boiled in a all glas coffee maker. They have 20 different blends. I decide for the European Blend and watch the waiter preparing it: Hot water in the lower bowl, coffee grain into the upper. Heating the water and it goes up. Looks like I need a more powerful bunsen burner at home.

Kanazawa: On the way to the Ryokan it starts to … it is not rain, neither snow. The Japanse call it Arare. I think we would call it graupel. I am surprised by its sudden intensity combined with heavy wind. Within seconds and without any warning the streets are completely white. No time to take cover. After a few minutes the show is over. I was hoping for snow but it was planned differently.

Kanazawa Eki
Street Sprinkler Fukui
Coffe Break in Fukui
Kanazawa Eki Fountain Clock
Kanazawa at Arrival

Where is the Ryokan? That shall be the right street. Even the guy I ask doesn’t know anything. Nice. But a colleage is helping. The Ryokan is somewhere close. Idead. A closer look shows it 30m away on the left. What a benefit if you can read Kanji.

After check-in I visit a izakaya around the corner, the was recommended by the staff. The place is part of the fish market. Here even for Japan the fish is really fresh. I order the sashimi plate: squid, shrimps, tuna, salmon, octopus, sea urchin. All fresh, all raw, all yummy. It is a fine, distinguished taste. Hot Nihonshu (sake) makes the evening perfect. I heard that sushi and sake doesn’t match. But the waiter says, that it is ok for sashima, because there is no soured rice. Back in the ryokan some onsen. Why? Because I can.

[deutscher Blogeintrag]

5 .. SHINNEN /, 5.1 .. Tempel in Kansai, 関西

Kyoto

Today ist Xmas eve and I visit Kyoto. I start at the train station. Maybe that Tokyo Eki is bigger and has more people running around, but Kyoto Eki is just one big building. It is nearly a quarter mile long and provides more than 15 levels above ground (plus several basement levels). The building is like a big hole with a roof. The broad stairway over 15 floor is just impressive architecture. Upstairs is the Skywalk. A small pathway right underneath the roof.

Fushimi Inari Shrine
Fushimi Inari Shrine
Inari Shrine Double Torii Row
Fushimi Inari Shrine Ema
Fushimi Inari Shrine
Fushimi Inari Shrine Torii

Inari Shrine

The next stop is everything but modern: The Fushimi-Inari-Shrine in South Kyoto (the train tracks mark the border between Kita and Minami / North and South Kyoto). Arriving by train I can spot the orange-red big gate from the platform. The buildungs are a sightseeing spot. It was a mistake to skip this shrine in my 2004 trip.

A good idea (to make some money) are Ema. Small wooden plates you can write your wishes on, like a letter the the deity. In this case the plate has the shape of a fox head. They are empty except for two lines that mark the eyes. It it impressive what people draw on this empty plates.

But the real attraction is behind the buildings: Torii. There are more than 1000 of them. It starts with 50 big ones in dark red. Then I arrive at the famous double row. Small Torii close-packed. What a view. What a view if you are standing inside. I stop counting after 200 Torii (in one row). It really is an experience to walk thru this tunnel of gates. The pictures do not capture this moment.

Behind the double row starts a 2,3km pilgrimage uphill with more gates. The guide says, that I need 2-3 hours. Shall I? But it will waste time. But I am already this far. What can I do? Damned. I’ll do it, but speed up. If there is no snow, I can run (this saying loses in the translation) …

Tofuku-ji
Tofuku-ji Bridge
Tofuku-ji Stone Gargen
Tofuku-ji Moss
Tofuku-ji Moss
Kiyomizudera
Kiyomizudera
Jishu Shrine
Jishu Shrine
Tofuku-ji

Uphill. Stairs. The width of one step is to short to walk it with two footsteps. The next time the stars are two small for one european footstep. I try to take two steps at once. This is hard stuff. I need more training. Downhill it shouldn’t do that. On the way up I have a nice view on Kyoto. The train station is easy to find. Now I can see how big this building really is. At the summit is an old shrine, meaning many old stones with ingravings. I do not understand the purpose.

Next stop is the Tofuku-ji. I walk. I pass a residential area with narrow streets. I recognize many red buckets. They are filled with water. Like in many anime. These buckets are for fire figthing. In front of every house are 10 litre of water. In Germany impossible. After the first night on a weekend these buckets would be empty and smashed.

The temple garden must be impressive during autumn color. I am too late. All the leaves are gone. The stone garden is bigger than the one in Ryoanji. It is worth the entrance fee. And there are three different stone gardens.

The subway brings me close to Kiyokizudera. I got myself lost in the maze of narrow, tiny streets of Higashiyama. Back on track I find myself in a shopping street that leads steep uphill to the temple. Or Shrine? I am not sure. In Kyoto you cannot seperate temple and shrines by building shape or the color of the torii.

Higashiyama District
Higashiyama District
Higashiyama at Night
Geishas at Gion
Higashiyama at Night
Higashi-yama und Gion

I enter an unspectacular hall. From the padio I have a nice view on Kyoto. Behind the  handrail it goes straight down. There is a path along the rock wall. The gallery on the other side is construction site. Bad timing. But now I have a good view at the padio and its wooden construction. This is the famous one. Wow. The path leads down to a tiny water fall. Also famous. It is the Ootwa-no-taki.

I spot a small shrine on the temple area that is filled with tourists. The attraction seems to be two stones. The shrine is the Jishu-Jinja and is dedicated to the deity of love. That explains a lot.

It is 3:30pm. I have to increase my speed. Back at the shopping street I almost miss the entrance to street with the old houses of Higashiyama. A nice place. A narrow street with stairs (and no cars). There are many shops inside the old houses to the left and right. Why I missed this place in 2004 … Maybe the same reason I missed the Kiyomizedera. I was stupid. Then I spot the first Geisha. Right. Gion is not that far away and the Chaya will open soon.

On the way Gio I get lost again; despite a map and a police box. What use is a map without the red „You are here“ dot? Argghh. I try the street on the left. It should end in a right turn. Yes. It does. This is Gion Corner. This area is filled with old tiny wooden houses and narrow alleys.

Minamiza Kyoto (Kabuki)
Kyoto Eki
Narrow Street in Gion
Pontocho
Street in Higashiyama
Kyoto Eki Christmas Tree
Gion

It starts to snow (a little bit) and dawn is beginning too. Last stop for today is Pontocho. Not an attraction like the usual ones. It is a narrow street with many Izakayas. Too small for a car but filled with tourists.

It is almost dark, when I am back at Higashiyama to take some night pictures (without a tripod). After that I walk home to the hotel. A long walk. Next time I’ll use the subway. Half way I decide for some snacks. I skipped lunch. The streets of Kyoto can be pretty dark. A brief stop at the train station for some Xmas feeling. Changing into something more stylish, abandon the camera and get into the next cab. Next stop: a Chaya.

I celebrate Xmas eve in compony of a meiko (Geshia still in training). She is speaking perfect english and serves all food and every single drink. There are some performances and drinking games. They know how to entertain. It is not cheap. Oh no. But it is awesome. I enjoy every single second (and the blog of today will end right here … *evil grin*).

[deutscher Blogeintrag]

5 .. SHINNEN /, 5.1 .. Tempel in Kansai, 関西

Amanohashidate

Amanohashidateis one of the three famous sceneries. And today I move to a hotel in Kyoto. But how? With the loop line to Oosaka Eki.  And then? I view on the board. Platform 4 in two minutes. I ask the conductor if this is the correct train. It is. Lucky. Then the next question: I only have 1 minute to change the train. Is this possible? The conductor says yes. The other train is wainting at the same platform (and is waiting for us). Wow. In Germany this would be unthinkable.

I arrive in Amanohashidate at 11:25 and no coin locker left. The tourist information suggests a souvenir shop. Practical. I can store my luggage (even the big bag) and have breakfast. Prefect Timing. It starts to rain. I order Asari-Don, a local specialty. Don is always rice plus egg plus X. And in this case X are clams. Delicious. No comparsion to Germany. And a beer from a local micro brew: Kölsch, yes with a „ö“.

Chionji
Amanohashidate
Amanohashidate
Chionji

Southern side

I visit the small temple. Nothing fancy but really worth a visit. The ropeway brings me up to a viewing platform. The sandbank is not looking that long. I don’t know what I had expected. Because of the strong wind I cannot use the full zoom of the camera. There is also a small amusement park here for kinds. Really small.

I start the walk to the northern side. The travel guide says that there are more than 8000 pine trees. The sand bank is 200m wide and has a nice beack on the right side. The view reminds me a little bit of the baltic sea. On the left side the pines are close the the water line. The wind is coming from this side. Here it is stormy. On the right side is now wind at all.  Both within 200m.

First sum up: Amanohashidate is nothing special. Of you are in this area, you can take a stop but it is not worth a 3 hour train ride. The sand bank may be unique but that is all.

On the northern side is a nice shrine. Behind it is a ropeway. At the top there is a viewing platform (again).  There are some strange poles with a ring on top. A saw them on the other side too. Looks like you can buy some wooden plates and try to throw them thru the ring.  I don’t know why. I book this thing in the category „fathomless Japan“.

Amanohashidate Beach
Amanohashidate Sand Bank
Amanohashidate Sand Bank
Amanohashidate

sand bank

There is a bus to temple. Shall I? Another 1100yen? Japense are the Ferengi of the planet earth. And the are successful. It would be stupid to go back without going the last mile. The bus is going uphill on a extremly winding and extremly narrow road. Koyasan flashback.

The temple was worth the money. Here at the top it is anowing a little bit. At the ropeway it was rain. This is snow line live. The temple is old and weathered. But this is its charme. Hundreds of lantern are hanging from the ceiling. Beautiful and impressiv. I only have a few minutes until the last bus is going back to the ropeway. I run. The driver is waiting for me. He stops. Because there is reason why this temple is mentioned in the guide. The pagode. I nearly missed it. I take some pictures. Next stop at the daimon. Just for me and a second tourist.

My rule to be always nice to the UPS guy, is also applicable for japanese bus driver and conductors. I talked to the driver at the ropeway station. Asked him, if the temple is worth the trip and if the remaining time of 20 minutes is enough. He said, that this is ok. He recognized me while I was running to the bus and also saw that I missed the pagoda.

To save some money I walk back to the southern side. Dinner at the souvenir shop. Udon. I don’t have to pay for storing my luaggage. Maybe because I visit the resto twice. The concept is working: You store your luaggage and maybe you visit the resto or buy some souvenirs. It is working for me. I saved 600yen for the coin locker *).

Nariai-ji
Nariai-ji Lantern
Kono Shrine
Nariai-ji Pagoda
Amanohashidate Bridge

Nordseite

The express ends in Kyoto. The famous central hall is 10 stories high. At the bottom of the big stairway is a Xmas tree. I takes some time to find the north-south-passage. It is not easy to find the south exit. After that it is also not easy to find the hotel. Where is it? I check all streets and side alleys. Then I see the entrance. A small door and two elevators. That is all. The reception desk is in 3F.

Btw.. Internet! I am back online after three days without network. Sorry for this break. Pictures will follow within the next days.

*) If you are in Japan and cannot find a coin locker – this happened to me several times before – ask the tourist information or the station staff. Before the rise of the coin lockers many shops close to the station offered storage space for a small fee. For the shops this was an additional customer and some money. This old tradition is still existing today in some places. My advice: In a small town ask for a store with a storage service. In the worst case you spend the same money than on a coin locker. But usually you get some additional information that are not mentioned in the guide. Only disadvantage: The closing time of the shop. — On this trip I did this three more times. In Inuyama, Kisofukushima and Fukui. In Inuyama I placed my bag in the office of the train station because there was no locker of the right size. In Kisofukushima were no locker at all. In Fukui I could store my stuff in in the bus station office for my short trip to Eihei-ji.]

[deutscher Blogeintrag]